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Uz je to dobry mesiac co som odstartoval dalsiu dobrodruznu cestu. Po poslednej ceste za velkymi stenami Patagonie som dostal chut na lezenie z trochu ineho sudka a rozhodol som sa vyrazit po par rokoch opat na azijsky kontinent, nie len za slnkom, skvelym jedlom, ale predovsetkym okusit najlepsie lezenie co region juhovychodnej azie ponuka. Po trochu logistiky sa mi v hlave zrodil nasledovny plan: Sest mesiecov volna teda startujem v Mekke indickeho boulderingu Hampi. Januar vidim na vapencove steny v Thajsku, februar Laos a s prichodom jari stravit dva mesiace v carovnej krajine juznej Ciny.
Sest mesiacov prace celkom stacilo. Jeden tyzden doma na organizaciu veci a 3.11.12 po bujarej noci, rozlucke s nasimi odlietam z Budapesti. Medzipristatie v Istanbule vyuzivam na obhliadku stareho mesta, ktore som chcel vzdy navstivit.. Po zopar prebdenych nociah 5.11.12 konecne pristavam v Delhi. Uz som tu bol niekolko krat pri minulej navsteve, tak sa rychlo dostavam na centralnu vlakovu stanicu, kde asi dve hod. cakam na listok, no mam stastie. Posledne miesto v Goa Expresse akoby zazrakom cakalo na mna a este ten isty den popoludni mierim na juh Indie. V Delhi sa za tie tri roky vela toho nezmenilo. Zapach vykalov, miliarda ludi, dopravna apokalypsa, kravy, psy, rikse, to vsetko ma uistuje, ze som spravne a tak sa tomu len s usmevom prizeram. Na stanici si davam este vyborne Thali a v polospanku sa doplazim na svoje miesto vo vlaku a okamzite zalahujem. Nasledujucich 40 hod. sa donutim vstat iba ak na vecko. Vlakovy servis v Indii je fantasticky. 2100 km v lezadlovom vozni za 7 EUR :) Kazdu chvilu okolo vas prejde chlapik s cajom, jedlom, cukrovinkami alebo staci natiahnut ruku z okna na stanici, kupit si banany alebo pomarance, skvele! 7.11.12 skoro rano som v Magadone, Goa. Este hodinu jazdy busom a kratko po vychode slnka sa moje biele chodidla zabaraju do vyhriateho piesku plaze Palolem obmyvanej teplymi vodami Indickeho oceanu. Hodim si veci do chatky a okamzite idem vykupat svoje prepotene telo, dobre sa najest a riedne si odpocinut. Nic lepsie som si na uvod cesty nemohol priat. V Goe si pride kazdy dovolenkar na svoje. Dlhe piesocnate plaze, od luxusnych rezortov po slamene chatrce, lacny alkohol, vynikajuca kuchyna, neutichajuce party vecery. Mne vsak dva dni vylihovania na plazi bohate stacili a nocnym busom sa presuvam za lezenim do Hampi asi 10 hod. jazdy. Mestecko Hampi, niekdajsie hlavne mesto rozsiahleho imperia dnes ponuka na obdiv desietky chramov, ktore pritahuju stovky putnikov zo sirokeho okolia. Mna vsak na toto nadherne miesto pritiahla ina skutocnost. Nespocetne mnozstvoo zulovych balvanov roztrusene po okoli, kde ani len oko nedovidi pripominajuce bojisko, o ktorom hovoria stare legendy, ked tu niekedy davno zvadzal boj opici Boh Hanuman, aj dnes najmocnejsia legendarna postava regionu. Najvacsia koncentracia zmapovanych bouldrov je na tzv. ostrove Hampi, kde viedli aj moje prve kroky. Miesto sa za poslednych par rokov dramaticky zmenilo. Na hlavnej ulici vyrastlo mnozstvo obchodikov, restauracii, hotelov a dokonca je tu aj lezecky obchod, kde sa daju poziciat bouldermatky, kupit alebo obiednat lezecke vybavenie. Spolocne so Stefanom z Talianska, ktoreho stretavam len dnes rano, mierime do lezeckeho zakladneho tabora Goan Corner, kde v roku 2003 byval aj sam Chris Sharma so svojimi priatelmi. Dnes je moznosti ovela viac, no ak hladate zivot v lezeckej komunite Goan Corner je miesto kde treba zakotvit. Niektori lezci tu prichadzaju rok co rok, ini sa zdrzia zopar dni. Idealne obdobie je medzi novembrom a marcom ked su teploty najnizsie (stale dost vysoke min. 15 cez den 30 stupnov). Vydany bol knizny sprievodca, plny nepresnosti, no pripravuje sa novy, ktory by mal byt na trhu v priebehu buduceho roka. Cely ostrov je rozdeleny do niekolko sektorov pristupnych od 5 do 30 min. chodze. Kazdy si tu pride na svoje od uplnych zaciatocnikov po borcov s nekonecnymi moznostami na prvoprelezy. Charakter lezenia je dost agresivny po malych lystach, s velkymi krystalmi, krore vas dokazu odrovnat behom par pokusov. Okrem ostrova je tu niekolko blizkych zmapovanych oblasti, alebo sa mozete vydat na prieskum a najst panenske bouldre, ktore sa tiahnu desiatky km vsetkymi smermi. Bezny lezecky den zacina budickom 5:45 o 6:00 s vychodom slnka stretavka, po skupinkach sa vyberame do jednotlivych sektorov. Teploty su znesitelne do 10:00. Nasleduje siesta do 15:00. Nekonecne debaty v medzinarodnej lezeckej komunite, odfukovanie v hamaku, spanok, slack line, bananove palacinky s nutelou atd. Ak dorastie koza z ranneho lezenia tak mate este dve hodky od 16:00 do 18:00 do zapadu slnka. Niekedy sa lezenie pretahuje do noci za svetiel celoviek. Niekedy lezieme 2-3 dni s jednym oddychovym dnom no pri dvrdych bouldroch si dorezane prsty pytaju dlhsi rest. To je asi najvacsia nevyhoda Hampi. Kombinacia ostrej skaly s vysokymi teplotami robi tazke bouldre extremne bolestive alebo sa neskutocne potite koli vysokej vlhkosti aj kratko po vychode slnka, ked su teploty najprijaznivejsie. Nopak obrovske pozitivum je neskutocna krasa okolia, ticho, pohoda, vynikajuca kuchyna a fantasticky ludia so vsetkych kutov sveta a relativne lacny zivot. Denne vydavky sa pohubuju v priemere 10 EUR/den . Ubytko , 3 x denne strava, staci si objednat a priatelsky personal vam splni takmer vsetko co vam na ociach vidi. Preludnena India, vsadepritomny zapach vykalov a odpadky od toho vsetkeho ste v oaze pokoja Goan Corner oslobodeni.
Ale kedze zivot je zmena, vybrali sme sa na skusy do 150km vzdialeneho mestecka Badami, kde sa momentalne nachadzame. O super lezeni na kvalitnom piesku a o tom ako sme sa dostali az do miestnych novin sa docitate uz o par tyzdnov v nasledujucom prispevku.

Hampi, India

Jaro


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Jaro - 11/12/12 - 5:58PM
Namasteeee vsetci. Vsetkym dakujem... zivot na cestach jeako inak fantasticky...vstkym to naj vsade kde ste. Zajtra opustame vynikajuci piesok v Badami opat na zulu do Hampi :)

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